Who Shaped the Black Fashion Industry?
By Christian Wabenga / AUGUST 08, 2024
Black fashion history has been molded by numerous designers, models, and influencers across various regions and eras. Their impact has left a lasting mark on global fashion, paving the way for an industry that embraces all people of color.
In this article, we aim to highlight the most influential Black figures in the fashion industry, from the Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s to the rise of Ethiopian model Liya Kebede, one of the first Black models to achieve international acclaim. Over the years, Black fashion designers, models, and creatives such as Ann Lowe, Dapper Dan (Daniel Day), and Virgil Abloh have used their talent to carve out a place for themselves in a predominantly Eurocentric and white-dominated industry.
According to Holly Alford, director of inclusion and equity at Virginia Commonwealth University's School of Arts, the influence of the Black community on fashion can be traced back to slavery, particularly in the cotton industry, where many were involved in weaving fabrics and dyeing processes, including the use of indigo.
Here are some of our favorite trailblazers who changed the way we dress:
Ann Lowe
Ann Lowe was the first African American fashion designer to gain some recognition. From the 1920s to the 1960s, her designs were worn by high society women, including the infamous bridal gown worn by Jacqueline Kennedy in 1953. Despite her immense talent, she was not credited for the design due to her race. Nevertheless, Ann persevered and later opened her boutique on Madison Avenue.
Stephen Burrows
Based in New York City and a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, Stephen Burrows made history as the first African American designer to gain international acclaim. Known for his vibrant, disco-inspired designs of the 1970s, Burrows helped put models of color on the front pages. His role in the "Battle of Versailles," which pitted American designers against French couturiers, was groundbreaking. With his innovative approach, Burrows and his Black models stole the show, redefining runway dynamics with a focus on movement and fabric.
Dapper Dan (Daniel Day)
Dapper Dan revolutionized luxury fashion with his iconic use of monogram prints, a style now known as "logomania." A self-taught tailor, he introduced high fashion to hip-hop culture through his Harlem boutique, which attracted clients like LL Cool J and Jay-Z. In 2017, after Gucci was called out for copying one of his designs, the brand collaborated with him, leading to a new fashion line and a second store and atelier opening in 2018.
Patrick Kelly
Although born and raised in the USA, Patrick Kelly found fame in France as the first American to be admitted into the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Known for his designs that blend pop culture references with Black traditions and a playful twist, Kelly's work was celebrated for its inclusivity and humor. He famously stated, "I create clothes for all women," promoting body positivity and diversity long before it became a mainstream movement.
Ozwald Boateng
British designer Ozwald Boateng is renowned for his unique take on classic British tailoring, infusing it with his Ghanaian heritage through vibrant colors and contemporary cuts. His influence extends beyond fashion, having designed costumes for major films like The Matrix and Ocean's 13. In 2007, he was invited to create a performance for the 9th African Union Summit, a significant event that coincided with the 200th anniversary of the abolition of the transatlantic slave trade and Ghana's 50th independence anniversary.
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize has made a name for himself by winning the LVMH Prize in 2019. Born and raised in Lagos, his brand, founded in 2013, reinterprets traditional West African fabrics and Nigerian craftsmanship. With the support of fashion icons like Naomi Campbell, who walked in his first Paris runway show in 2020, Ize has elevated the handweaving techniques of the Yoruba people, transforming them into modern, gender-fluid silhouettes.
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh's impact on streetwear and luxury fashion is immeasurable. The Chicago-born multidisciplinary artist first gained recognition with his fashion house, Off-White, founded in 2013. In 2018, he broke barriers by becoming the first Black artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear line. Named one of Time magazine's 100 most influential people in the world that same year, Abloh's innovative designs and forward-thinking approach left an indelible mark on the industry.
Telfar Clemens
Telfar Clemens, founder of the namesake brand Telfar, has made waves with his affordable, genderless designs that celebrate Black culture. His "Bushwick Birkin," a vegan leather shopping bag adorned with the signature "T" logo, became a sensation, selling out within minutes of every restock and earning a cult following. Clemens' approach to fashion is rooted in accessibility and inclusivity, challenging the traditional luxury paradigm.
From Ann Lowe to Virgil Abloh, Black designers and creatives have continuously challenged the status quo, bringing innovation, diversity, and inclusivity to the forefront of fashion. Their contributions have not only shaped the industry but have also laid the groundwork for future generations. As the fashion world continues to evolve, the impact of these trailblazers serves as a powerful reminder that true creativity knows no bounds—and that inclusivity and representation are not just trends but vital components of a thriving, dynamic industry.